Edinburgh

Edinburgh is big, beautiful city. We were barely able to scratch the surface in the two days we had there.

Day 1: Plockton to Edinburgh

We saw yet more gorgeous highland scenery on the train today. A huge gust of wind and rain come through while we were undercover waiting for the train in Plockton. We ran into an English couple who had walked into the village and were unimpressed.

We had a bit of a scare with the train. The train going into Inverness was held up for 15 minutes, and we would have missed our connection to Perth had they not held the train. Others had worse issues; one woman would not have made it home. Otherwise it was uneventful. And beautiful.

We found our B&B again with only minor difficulty. Another great room, quite elegant in black and white, with a chandelier and fake fur spread. Nice bath too. I continue to be amazed at what nice baths they can put into small spaces. Our host Dean is very friendly and knowledgeable; full of tips and a welcome tea.

And we can tell we’re back in civilization because our local is a gay bar. We had Deuchars IPA, apparently the definitive Edinburgh beer, with nachos. And live music.

Sherry was waiting as a nightcap when we returned.

Day 2: Edinburgh Castle and the Old Town

Today’s breakfast included fruit, croissants (CHOCOLATE croissants!), egg, bacon, sausage, black pudding, mushroom, tomato, toast, juice, coffee. Steve got my strawberries because allergies.

Then off to the Royal Mile. We walked all the way to the castle first, then back down to Holyroodhouse. St Giles was quite beautiful, especially the Thistle Chapel.

It was also interesting to go to Holyroodhouse Palace and see the rooms where Riccio was killed, etc. We were glad we had the audio guide to provide context. The ruined abbey is still attached to the palace, which backs up to Holyrood park. That’s Arthur’s Seat in the distance. We plan to climb that tomorrow. And the bottom right photo is the view of Holyroodhouse from Arthur’s Seat.

This evening we walked up Calton Hill. There was more up there than I thought, and nice views.

Then we headed to the Cafe Royal. But no cullen skink! I must look for it tomorrow. We’re drinking Williams Red again. Very nice beer. At least I get haggis. Cafe Royal has the second best loo of the trip. Nice tile, but can’t beat the water view and vessel sinks at Crannog in Fort William.

Cafe Royal
We don't have many pub photos, even though we went to one (almost) every night. Felt weird taking photos of strangers drinking. This is the Cafe Royal in Edinburgh. The bar is in the center of the pub.

We saw a fox on the way home. Too bad the photo didn’t turn out better. More sherry for a nightcap.

fox in the road
The arrow is pointing to a fox we saw coming home from the pub. No, alcohol was not a factor. We got a very good look at it; I just couldn't get a good picture of it.

Day 3: Arthur's Seat and the National Museum

Same great breakfast this morning. We walked up Arthur’s Seat first. We had someone from Ann Arbor ask us for directions on the way down. Damn Wolverines are everywhere … 

Then we went to the National Museum of Scotland, a huge confusing kind of place but with lots to see. It took us about four hours to cover part of three floors. Bit difficult to navigate, but an interesting and eclectic selection, particularly the section on the history of Scotland. Finally, a claymore!

We continue to be amazed at how well-behaved the dogs are here. We passed one on the road; it wasn’t interested in us at all. We did see one pee on merchandise outside a store. But I blame the owner, who didn’t seem bothered. And didn’t have it on a leash.

We hit the Bow Bar for a couple pints of Edinburgh No. 3 (Stewart Brewing), then ate at Fishers in the City, after neither Mussell Inn nor Jamie’s Italian had tables available. Now back at The Regent drinking Deuchars. We weren’t sure if we would be intruding or feel out of place at a gay pub but neither was the case.

Essentials​

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Lodging

It’s a shame the B&B we stayed at has closed. We had a great stay there.

Dining

The Regent Bar
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The Regent was recommended to us by our host when we asked about a place nearby with good beer and food. We had nachos, which smelled amazing being served to others and didn't disappoint. Staff was very friendly and live music was a bonus.
Fisher's in the City
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Didn't think it would be so difficult to find a table at 6:30pm on a weeknight. I suspect this restaurant is better if you are planning a big night out; we just wanted to eat. At £14 for fish and shrimp and chips we thought it a big overpriced, but the food was good.
The Cafe Royal
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We went intending just to drink, but after seeing the menu decided to eat there too. I enjoyed the haggis, but was disappointed they were out of cullen skink. Beautiful pub; it's worth going for a drink just to see it.
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Transportation

Edinburgh is a large city but we were still able to walk everywhere.