Day 1: Athens to Naxos
Day 2: Plaka Beach
Day 3: Guided Tour of Naxos
Day 4: Day Trip to Delos and Mykonos
Day 5: Naxos to Santorini
Day 1: Athens (Αθήνα) to Naxos (Νάξος)
We were a bit nervous about getting to the port at Piraeus from our hotel since we had to catch the first metro train to get there on time. It ended up being uneventful though there were a surprising number of people around at 5 AM.
Our ferry trip to Naxos was also uneventful and scenic, other than everyone wanting to stand at the rail and block the view. Taking a traditional ferry is an iconic way to get around the islands. The bigger boat below is a ferry you take between islands. The smaller one is taking us on our day trip.
Below is the mob scene when we got off the boat at Naxos. Herds of rolling luggage went clattering across the cobblestones.
We had a hard time finding our place on Naxos, though everyone was helpful and friendly. It really is a maze. First a nice man gave us directions to the market and told us to ask at the market for directions from there. The market spilled into the surrounding “streets.” We ended up with a bottle of water because I felt like I should buy something while asking directions. With much waving and pointing we found our way. Had we entered the maze at a different point we would have seen the arrows below. (Start at the sister Apollon Hotel to find it easier than we did.) You follow the arrows through the maze to find your destination.
Chateau Zevgoli is a very nice and friendly place. Our host brought us cold water and juice and helped with directions and recommendations.
We had a big lunch at Meze Meze, despite the name. The beer was relatively cheap. Then we took a nap. We had dinner at Irini’s, which is also on the waterfront. We checked out a couple of cafes afterward for beer.
When we discussed our plans with our host, she mentioned that the man who worked the night shift at the hotel also occasionally arranged guided tours for people. After dinner, we met Demitris and his family back at the hotel and discussed doing a tour with him.
Day 2: Plaka Beach
Today was beach day. We took the bus to Plaka beach — at the end of line. We got to scout the other beaches on our way there and decided that one worked for us. We had an umbrella and loungers, and could buy beer at a mini market across the road. The beach itself was nice sand, with large flattish rocks in the water. The water temperature was cool enough that it took a little getting used to and also refreshing. We saw our first lizards there.
We went to Apostolis for dinner at our hosts recommendation. We saw the standoff below between a local dog and cat. (The cat kind of blends into the stones.) Many of the restaurants in the old town spill into the surrounding streets and courtyards,
After dinner we picked up our next ferry tickets and made final arrangements for our tour with Demitris. We got a peek at the Venetian house as we walked by.
Day 3: Guided Tour of Naxos
We spent the day on a wonderful guided tour with Demitris. After that we had another nap — that man could sprint in street shoes! — then dinner at Meze Meze. We looked into a Delos day trip, bought a bottle of Naxos red wine, and drank it on the terrace.
Day 4: Day Trip to Delos (Δήλος) and Mykonos (Μύκονος)
We booked a day trip to Delos with a stop at Mykonos on the way back. We were there for Delos. A couple of hours in pricey Mykonos was all we needed! While waiting for our boat to arrive we got to see some fishermen at work at the harbor.
I got very dizzy on the boat going back to Naxos. Probably dehydration. Our boat had to turn around at Paros because someone didn’t get off at the right spot. So we were back in port later than scheduled.
We had dinner at Lucullus in the old town and sat in the alley. Steve was afraid of falling over backwards down the hill! Then we went to Ebeeria for beers.
Day 5: Naxos to Santorini (also Thira, or Θήρα)
Our ferry to Santorini didn’t leave until the afternoon, so we had some time to sightsee before we left. We walked out to the Temple of Apollo, also known as the Portara. It didn’t look like much from town, but this little peninsula just outside town offers a nice view of the town and is a little escape from the crowds. Except maybe at sunset, when it looked like a lot of people headed that way. We went in the morning and it was peaceful and beautiful. The water is very clear.
Then we found our way up to the Kastro and walked around. Our roof terrace is the bamboo roof in the top left photo.
Then we discovered the boat left earlier than I thought, so we checked out and headed for the port!
Essentials
Sleeping
The old town has smaller B&Bs and boutique hotels. Outside the old town are more modern studios and such. We had a lovely room at Chateau Zevgoli looking over the city to the temple of Apollo. The tree growing through the middle of the building is just magical, as is the garden patio at the entrance. The breakfast (bread, jam, honey, hard boiled egg, cheese, lunchmeat, yogurt, coffee, juice, fruit) didn’t sound like much but was surprisingly filling. The rooftop deck was a nice place for a glass of wine at night; the hotel provided the corkscrew and glasses. All of the staff members we interacted with were wonderful. The location in the old town is just what we were looking for.
Read about how we find accommodations
Eating
One of the reasons we chose Naxos was because of its reputation for food. Every meal we had was great. There are restaurants scattered within the old town and down along the waterfront.
We ate at Meze 2 twice, once for lunch and once for dinner. Saganaki and Greek salad and burgers with cream and bacon. Greek salad came with capers; a nice addition. Octopus croquettes followed by stuffed squid and seafood saganaki. Food was good and portions were HUGE. Beer was cheaper than other places. At Irini’s Restaurant we had tzatziki, grilled kalamari, and grilled mackerel, which was all great. Atmosphere was bit more intimate than the other places along the waterfront. We had dinner at Apostolis at the recommendation of our host. French fries for starters – great idea! Lamb baked in a clay pot with three cheeses was one of the best entrees we had on the trip. Lamb kleftiko was also great. Great atmosphere in a courtyard with a giant tree. I would go back to Lucullus Taverna for the saganaki with wild berry sauce alone! We also had souvlaki. We sat at a table in the alley. House wine was also good. Service a little slow, but good. Our guide brought us to Matina & Stavros Tavern in Koronos on our tour of the island. We let them order for us, and sampled a variety of different dishes, all of which were good. And lots of it.
Read about how we find places to eat and drink
Getting Around
We arrived and left on a traditional ferry. We took Blue Star ferries from Piraeus (Athens) to Naxos. Naxos also has an airport. The old town and waterfront is easily walkable, though the town is on a hill. In fact, you can’t drive in the old town! We took the bus to the beach.