Day 1: Penzance to Totnes
Getting from Penzance to Totnes is easy, since they’re both on the main line. Totnes is close enough to Exeter that you could visit it on a day trip. It sounded interesting enough that we opted to stay here too, and make our next transfer to Cheltenham less complicated. It was an easy walk from the train station to Bridgetown, where we stayed. We got to see this view down the river every day as we made our way to and from Bridgetown.
We had dinner reservations for our first night at the Waterside Bistro. We had some good pizza, then walked across the bridge to The Albert Inn for some cider. The bar staff let us sample the different options. As an added bonus, there was live music. It looked like a local jam session of traditional music and was very good. The couple next to us was playing cards and the pub dog wandered back and forth. Seemed like a real local hangout.
Day 2: Middle Dart Valley Walk
We walked to Dartington Hall and back following the Middle Dart Valley Walk. We saw wildlife in addition to the Hall, including a mandarin duck. We detoured through town on our way back, walking over to the base of the hill the castle is on and then making our way down the High Street. The High Street had lots of interesting looking shops. Unfortunately the costume museum I wanted to visit has closed. We didn’t visit the castle as it didn’t sound very interesting.
Totnes has a high quirk factor. We saw several penguin statues, some Egyptian-inspired statues, and a frog on a bicycle. We went back to the Waterside Bistro for dinner, this time fish and chips.
Day 3: Middle Dart Valley Walk (again)
It was interesting seeing the river change with the tide, the weather, and the time of day. Here it is in the morning.
We wanted to get a better look at the mandarin duck so we did the same walk again, this time detouring to a path near the river rather than going up to the Hall again. We did find our duck and got a better look at it, along with grebes, moorhens, and an English robin. There was more traffic on the trail today, both walkers and cyclists. Probably because it’s Saturday.
We’ve seen some pretty plants on this trip, including some we’d like to grow, like this passion flower, pyracantha — we had some at our old house and would like to grow it again — and clematis. Even the clematis seeds are pretty! We went back to the Waterside Bistro one last time.
We barely scraped the surface of things to do in the area. We thought about doing the “round robin” trip by train and boat to the coast and up the river, or taking the little train to Buckfastleigh and ended up doing neither. We still had fun.
Essentials
Lodging
Our chose The Old Forge and this specific room because we liked the idea of having our own terrace. (And hoped the weather would allow us to enjoy it! Which it did.) It’s in a residential neighborhood near the center but quiet. It’s a beautiful building and grounds and breakfast in the conservatory is delightful. Very welcoming host too.
Dining
We liked the Waterside Bistro so much we ate there every night. The food, service and atmosphere were all great. We had pizza, fish and chips, and the best Moules Mariniere (mussels) ever. Plus they had a good beer selection. There’s indoor and outdoor seating plus a separate more restaurant-like room. I’d suggest reservations for dinner.
Transportation
Totnes is on the main train line and is small enough that we could walk everywhere we needed to go.