Day 1: Taupo to Wellington
The first stretch of our 7 hour bus trip to Wellington was the most scenic part. We had a nice clear day as we followed the Lake Taupo shoreline and then went past the mountains on the other side. We had an even better view of Mount Doom — real name Mt Ngauruhoe — than we did from across the lake.
Much of the remaining trip was bush, hills, and small towns. You see a lot of half-scalped hills here because trees are regularly harvested. And then replanted for later harvest. They grow fast here.
We only spent the night in Wellington between the bus from Taupo and the ferry to Picton. So if you really want to hear about Wellington, check our our post from the last time we were here and spent four nights. It’s a great city and we would have spent time here again if we’d had more time. We went to Fork & Brewer for dinner and beer, a place we remember from our first visit.
Day 2: Wellington to Picton
The following morning we were up early for our ferry to Picton. We took Interislander, which runs a free shuttle from the central train station to their dock. We sat outside initially to see the views as we left Wellington but the wind soon drove us inside to seek shelter. We ventured out again as we got closer to Picton.
Picton is a compact little place around a harbor and marina. We stopped at the iSite (tourist information) right when we got off the ferry. They had good maps and advice on walking. We knew we had a view from our hotel so we expected a hill. We did not expect the entire hill to be in the parking lot. It was steep. That’s our place, below and to the right of the rusty brown spot. We sat on the deck and enjoyed some wine, and had pizza for dinner.
Day 3: Snout Track
One reason we chose Picton was for nearby walking opportunities. Today we did part of the Snout Track. Below is just one of the lovely views we saw along the way.
On the way back we crossed over the coat-hanger bridge and saw an example of the kiwi humor we enjoy. We hit the supermarket for wine, cider — we’ve really been enjoying cider this trip — and dinner and breakfast supplies.
Then we enjoyed our balcony and the view some more.
Day 4: Marlborough Sounds Boat Tour
Another reason for choosing Picton was to take a boat tour to see some of the Marlborough Sounds and to hike part of the Queen Charlotte Track. We found a boat tour that allowed us to do both. It was another early morning start, and a good look at a cicada.
The boat tour we took, with Beachcomber Cruises, also stopped at a bird sanctuary island, where there were fearless birds and great views from a hilltop lookout.
Day 5: A Day Off
We took a day off to relax and enjoy our balcony and view. We went down to the beach and stuck our feet in the water — it was cold, like we expected — bought a Christmas ornament at a local artisan shop, and stocked up at the supermarket.
These views are why we stayed in today. Blue water, green forests, ferries and sailboats. And the coat-hanger bridge.
It seems every town of any size in Australia and New Zealand has a Word War I memorial. This is the one in Picton, prominently sited in the middle of downtown, with a public park on the shore behind it.
Essentials
Lodging
In Wellington we stayed at the Quest 256 Lambton, right downtown on Lambton Quay. Since we were only in town for the night we picked a place close to the central train/bus station and that had laundry. So we were disappointed when we arrived and didn’t find the promised laundry … until we closed the bathroom door in the middle of the night and found the washer and dryer behind the door! User error aside it was a nice studio; we could have happily stayed longer. Downtown was not deserted after dark.
In Picton we stayed at the Harbour View Motel on the edge of town with of … you guessed it, the harbor! Our room was spacious, clean, and comfortable, if a little rough in spots that didn’t matter. The terrace had plenty of space and great views, and we took full advantage. Friendly hosts too, that let us check out a little late.
Dining
In Wellington we had BBQ pizza and fish and chips at Fork & Brewer. I tried a passion fruit and juniper beer that sounded weird and tasted good. Great food, beer, and service in a fun atmosphere. We came here on our first visit and liked it this time too. In Picton we had pizza at Scoozi, which had an extensive menu beyond that. Other than that we bought sandwich makings and meat pies at the supermarket. There were other restaurants in town but nothing sounded that interesting.
Transportation
We took the Intercity bus from Taupo to Wellington, then the Interislander ferry from Wellington to Picton. The last time we crossed from the north to the south island we flew. Maybe we were unlucky with the weather, but since we missed any scenery from the ferry, I’d say you won’t miss much by flying. Or pay for a seat with a view on the ferry. We didn’t. We left Picton on the Coastal Pacific train. Picton itself is tiny and pretty flat. Easily walkable.
Picton or Nelson?
On our first trip to New Zealand we spent three nights in Nelson, which is also at the north tip of the south island. Both are near the water and long-distance tracks (the Abel Tasman near Nelson and the Queen Charlotte near Picton). Both have ferry connections and airports. Both have multiple tour boat companies to get you around.
So which is better? It depends. Nelson is 10 times larger and has more and better dining options. It’s also further from the Abel Tasman track than Picton is from the Queen Charlotte track. Picton also has more nature walking opportunities closer to town. Nelson is better placed for public transport down the west coast; Picton for public transport down the east coast. So either is great, perhaps depending on where you’re headed next.
Nelson
Nelson is pleasant town close to Abel Tasman park and with a (now partially closed) interesting museum. We spent three nights there.