Oslo

Oslo's downtown is pleasant and walkable and we enjoyed the museums we visited during our 5 nights here. It seems like a nicely livable, low-key kind of city.

Day 1: Reykjavik to Oslo

Our flight from Reykjavik to Oslo wasn’t that long but with the time change we arrived in Oslo around 3:30 PM. A helpful attendant at the airport assisted us with the Flytoget (airport express train) and got us 50% off by reminding us that since one of us is a senior, we both get the senior discount. 

This lovely stained glass is in the ceiling of Keflavik airport. The large dog we saw in Oslo walking to the hotel. 

We walked from the Oslo central train station to our hotel. After a return trip to the desk to get our key to work, we ate dinner at the hotel restaurant because it was recommended and we were too tired to hunt for an alternative. Plus it was Monday, and lots of restaurants were closed. 

Day 2: National Museum and Vigeland Park

Our first real day in Oslo. We started by walking down to the waterfront. Oslo has lots of attractive old buildings downtown. 

We bought Oslo Passes at the waterfront. We’d planned on visiting City Hall but it was covered in scaffolding. We don’t know the significance of the bright green elephants but they were photogenic. 

Our first stop was the National Museum, where we focused on the design section. The museum is covered by the Oslo Pass though you need to get a ticket at the desk. And then you need to check your water bottles, larger bags, and umbrellas at the free lockers. 

modern statue

After leaving the museum we hopped on a tram (also covered by the Oslo Pass) to the Vigeland Sculpture Park. We also got to see more of the city along the way. 

park overview

We had dinner at the hotel again, since Norwegian food sounded good. Tomorrow we’re off again. 

We did Norway in a Nutshell and a coastal cruise, then returned to Oslo

Day 3: Bergen to Oslo

It’s about seven hours by train from Bergen to Oslo and while the scenery perhaps wasn’t as spectacular as on the way to Bergen when we detoured to the fjord, it was still scenic. We didn’t get into Oslo until dinnertime so we ate at the hotel restaurant again.

Day 4: Bygdøy Museums

Rain is forecasted for this afternoon so we bought an Oslo Pass again (online this time) and caught a bus headed out toward Bygdøy. I bet in nice weather these street cafes get a lot of business. 

Our first stop was the Folk Museum, since it’s mostly outdoors. And our first stop there was the stave church. 

We hopped back on the #30 bus to the Kon-Tiki and Fram museums, which are conveniently right across the street from each other. We really wanted to go to the viking ship museum but it was closed for renovations. 

It started pouring right when we got to the liquor store, so we timed that well. We bought aquavit and some local beer since we have a refrigerator here. We got off the elevator for dinner to a sea of incoming guests and luggage. We actually went someplace different for dinner tonight. After three weeks of Icelandic and Norwegian food we were ready for something different. So many potatoes! Not complaining, just ready for a change. So, pizza, which is apparently Norway’s favorite food.

Day 5: Oslo to Copenhagen

We’re on the move again, this time via an overnight ferry to Copenhagen. We decided to just take our time getting down to the waterfront and hang out there rather than pack in more sightseeing. It just feels awkward to check out, leave the bags at the hotel, run around, then circle back to pick up the bags. Anyway it was a nice day and good to just be outdoors. 

Once we got on the ferry we headed for the upper deck so we could get a look at what was on the other side of the ferry. And to hang out until our cabin was open and we could drop off our luggage. I also bought our shuttle ticket for tomorrow when we land in Copenhagen, since we can’t walk from the port to our hotel there. 

This DFDS ferry has a very different demographic than the Hurtigruten cruise boat. Many more children and younger people on this boat. It is Friday, so maybe some of them are heading for Copenhagen for the weekend. We got to see some last Norwegian scenery as we headed south. 

Essentials​

Lodging

Our room at the Hotell Bondeheimen was pretty spacious and had a decent view. It’s nice when there’s more than one chair in the room! It’s close to the train station and the port so we could walk to both. Rick Steves recommended it and said it used to be where rural children stayed when attending school in Oslo. 

Our cabin on the DFDS ferry was not as plush as our cabin on Hurtigruten but then it was only for one night. 

Dining

We ate at Kaffistova, the hotel restaurant, more than once because it was convenient, recommended, and we liked it. In fact Steve liked the moose patties so much he had them more than once. Our last night we went to the tiny Cin Cin Cafe, in a kind of court/alley across the square from the hotel. We reserved online, which they seemed surprised at. The pizza was good, the vibe was different. They were setting up for an art exhibition when we left. They invited us to stay but we were ready to get out of the way and crash. There are lots of other places to eat in Oslo. We weren’t feeling the need to venture further. 

Transportation

Downtown Oslo is easily walkable. The Oslo Pass includes unlimited public transportation so that took care of getting to sights further out. We probably didn’t get full value from the pass but it was certainly convenient, which is worth something. We took the Flytoget express train from the airport to Oslo central station. That was quick and easy.